Determine card value
How much is my Pokémon card worth?
A Pokémon card's value does not come from its age but from five details: set, card number, rarity, language and condition. This guide shows step by step how to read those details off your card, how to interpret them and what a displayed market price actually tells you.
Five steps to a realistic value
Order matters: identify the exact print first, then the condition, and only then the price. Starting from a search result almost always compares the wrong print.
1. Read the set and card number
The bottom of the card shows the card number with the set size (e.g. 025/165) plus the set symbol or set code. That combination identifies the print; the name alone is not enough because popular cards appear in many sets.
2. Identify rarity and variant
Normal, reverse holo, holo, illustration rare and special art rare versions of the same card trade separately. If the number is higher than the set size, you are holding a secret rare with its own price level.
3. Mind the language
German, English, French and Japanese prints have their own markets and their own prices. Never compare an English price with your German or Japanese card.
4. Judge the condition honestly
Check corners, edges, surface and centring separately in raking light and grade from near mint to damaged. Between near mint and played, sought-after cards often lose 50 to 80 percent of their value.
5. Check the market price and its age
With those details you can read the market price, provided price data exists for exactly that print. When no price is available the app names the reason — nothing is estimated or counted as zero.
What every serious valuation needs
Miss one of these and the result is a range, not a value. The scan reads the details from your photo and suggests matching cards; you confirm the right one before anything is saved.
- Set
- The set symbol or code decides which price series applies. First editions and early sets sit well above later reprints of the same card.
- Card number
- The number with the set size identifies the print. Without it, artwork, series logo and card back help narrow down the run.
- Rarity and variant
- Foil type and rarity often matter more for the price than which Pokémon is shown.
- Language
- Card data is available in German, English, French and Japanese — a price only ever applies to the scanned language version.
- Condition
- Market prices are usually quoted for near mint. Every step below that lowers the achievable price.
- Quantity
- For a collection valuation it also matters how many copies of the same card and variant you own.
Asking price, sold price, market value
Three numbers, three meanings. The most common mistake is treating the highest visible price as the value of your own card.
Asking price: what sellers currently want. It shows the range but not whether anyone buys at that level.
Sold price or market value: what was actually paid. That is the sturdier basis — together with the age of the price data.
What about a whole collection?
The same rules apply per card, just many times over. Cards added by scan or CSV import add up to a total built from the cards that have price data; cards without price data are reported separately and never counted as zero. The portfolio history additionally shows the development over time.
Frequently asked questions about Pokémon card values
- How much is my Pokémon card worth?
- Only an exact identification answers that: set, card number, rarity, language and condition together define the price series that applies to your card. The app then shows the market price with its data age, provided price data exists for that print.
- How do I find out the value of a Pokémon card?
- Photograph the card straight on, confirm the suggested match, then enter condition and variant — after that you see the available market price. Without a scan you take the same route manually: read set symbol, card number and language, then search for exactly that print.
- How much are old Pokémon cards worth?
- Age alone creates no value. What sells are holo cards from early sets and first editions in good condition; ordinary cards from the same sets usually sit in the cents-to-euros range. Rarity, print run and condition remain decisive.
- How much are Pokémon cards from 1999 worth?
- Cards from the early 1999 sets range from a few cents to four-figure sums. First edition markings, holo variant, language and condition decide — two visually similar cards can differ many times over.
- Which Pokémon cards are valuable?
- Typically cards with small print runs: first editions of early sets, holo and secret rare variants, illustration and special art rares, promos from limited campaigns and well-centred copies in near mint. The same Pokémon in a standard variant is usually cheap.
- How do I know whether my card is rare?
- Look at the rarity symbol at the bottom of the card, at foil effects, and at whether the card number exceeds the set size — the latter marks secret rares. The set code additionally tells you which expansion the print comes from.
- How much is a Charizard card worth?
- „Charizard“ is not a single print: it exists in many sets, languages and variants with widely differing prices. Determine set, card number and variant of your copy first, then read the price of that specific print.
- How much is a holo card worth?
- Holo only means the card carries a shiny effect — the price still depends on set, print run and condition. Reverse holo, holo and special art rare versions of the same card also trade as separate prints.
- Where can I check the value of my Pokémon cards?
- Right here: scan or search the card, confirm the match, enter the condition. Getting started is free with 10 scans a day; displayed market prices come from public TCG price sources and carry their data age visibly.
- How much is my whole collection worth?
- Add the cards by scan or CSV import including condition and quantity. The collection view sums the cards that have price data and reports cards without price data separately — they are never counted as zero.
- Are Japanese cards worth more than German or English ones?
- Not as a rule. Japanese cards are printed in higher numbers, so ordinary cards are often cheaper; sought-after Japanese illustration and special art rares frequently sit above their international counterpart. Prices always apply to one language version only.
- Is grading worth it for my card?
- Grading usually pays off only when the ungraded market value clearly exceeds grading and shipping costs and the card is well centred with clean edges. Check the raw value first and compare realised prices of the same card across grades.
Identify the card, see the value, build the collection
A scan returns a card suggestion with set, number and language that you confirm. Condition, quantity and — where available — the market price then land in your collection and in the portfolio history.
Market prices are snapshots from public price sources and can fluctuate. This page is not buying, selling or investment advice.